20. Alaska the Beautiful! Tracy’s Arm (Juneau) to Ketchikan, July-August 2020

After leaving Juneau, we headed south via Stephen’s Passage to reach Taku Harbor.  Waiting out a storm, surrounded by local crab pots, we had two days of relaxation. It was so nice to be anchored in a lovely harbor while the wind in Stephen’s Passage reached 40 knots! Giorgio finally had the opportunity to set his new crab pot which ended up tangled up in the rudder. We learned that we had to set the pots away from the boat!

Taku Harbor, a refuge for local fishing boats.

Giorgio’s New Toys

In Juneau, Giorgio bought a crab pot, a shrimp pot, and a garbage can: all collapsable for easy storage!

Now our boat looks more like a fishing boat!
Giorgio’s collapsed toys.

Buoys of other crab pots in tranquil Taku Harbor.

The calm after the storm. We finally see some clearing in the mountains as we leave Taku Harbor.

Tracy’s Arm and Sawyer Glacier

We continued south in Stephen’s Passage to reach Tracy’s Arm, a spectacular fjord about 45 miles south of Juneau. Sawyer Glacier, the bluest of glaciers, is located about 6 miles up the fjord at the end of Tracy’s Arm. We zig-zagged up the fjord surrounded by waterfalls, icebergs, growlers and Tiffany blue ice sculptures.

A double waterfall near Tracy’s Arm.
The steep, majestic walls of Tracy’s Arm. In perspective, our boat would be barely visible at the base.
If you zoom in, you will notice that the yacht has a red helicopter!
A basalt monolith.
One beautiful blue iceberg after another…
and another…

and another…
and one more.
Two long waterfalls flow into the emerald green water of the fjord.
One more double waterfall!
Notice the size of this waterfall in comparison to a 120 ft. motor yacht!
It’s easy to get carried away looking at all the shapes. Hat or mushroom?
A ballerina showing off to her friends?
The Loch Ness monster of Tracy’s Arm!
Any guesses?
Sawyer Glacier was worth the trip!
A very satisfied Giorgio…
and Jan!

Stephens Passage, the Place for Whales and Orcas!

An Orca in Stephen’s Passage.
A humpback whale in Stephen’s Passage. Notice the snow capped mountains.
The other side of Sawyer Glacier from Stephen’s Passage.

Pybus Bay, Admiralty Island

Giorgio’s first of many guests in the crab pot!
Kiwi Captain Kevin from SY Wonderland (in the background) gifted us with several pounds of freshly caught rockfish.
Something’s cooking!
Later in the evening, we feasted on crab and rockfish! The wine is still in the fridge.
A Beaver seaplane taking off in Pybus Bay.
Morning mist on the bay. A thermal inversion?
One of the many glaciers. A chill in the air.
Giorgio’s favorite warming remedy for a chilly afternoon. Hot tea with Sardinian honey and Saint Lucia Rum!

 Petersburg, Mitkof Island

Petersburg is a nice small town known for its Norwegian heritage and for having one of Alaska’s most prosperous fishing fleets. In the early 1900s, local businessmen thought that with the proximity of lots of glacial ice nearby, the town would be an ideal spot for a cannery and today Petersburg is the home of a modern seafood processing corporation known as Icicle Seafoods.  Fishing is still the mainstay of the economy. Notice the parallel tidal grids for working on the boat: you arrive over them on high tide and work on them at ebb tide. 

SV JAN moored at the fishing dock in front of the cannery.
The cannery with two fishing boats unloading their catch.
A large bin outside the cannery filled with fresh salmon carcasses. Lots of meat left. Perfect for crab pot bait!
Petersburg’s Tidal Grid: you dock the boat at high water so that at low water the hull will be exposed and dry for maintenance.

Wrangell Narrows

Wrangell Narrows lies between Mitkof Island on the east and Woesodski and Kupreanof Islands on the west. It is a 21 mile navigational challenge! Although the channel was well marked, we had to pay absolute attention to our course and stay away from shallow areas and rocks.  The current was also particularly strong in many places. We did not have much traffic to contend with and the weather was fortunately good.  

Southbound boats waiting for a favorable current to enter Wrangell Narrows.
Entering what is known as ‘pinball alley’. Notice the many buoys marking the course.
Someone who did not follow the buoys!
The AIS alerts you to approaching traffic. This is very useful when rounding corners and in fog.
Northbound traffic on a clear day!

Anan Bear and Wildlife Observatory

We had the wonderful opportunity to visit the Anan Bear Observatory in the Tongass National Forest.  Anan Creek is home to one of the largest runs of pink salmon in SE Alaska which supports the large population of black and brown bears.  We did not see any brown bears, apparently they stay further upriver.  However, we watched around a dozen black bears catching salmon in the river. What a rare opportunity to see the bears up close in their natural environment feasting on their favorite food!  They would reach into the water, make a few swipes with their giant paws and catch one salmon after another.  They would have a few bites and leave the carcass on the rocks for the eagles and ravens to clean up and enjoy. 

We anchored near the Forest Service dock and took our dinghy to the mouth of the Anan River. 

Taking the dingy to the trail.
The mouth of Anan creek. What an idyllic place!

The observatory was located about 1/2 mile up the river where there was a covered and gated observation platform. 

Walking to the observatory was easy.

The bears saw us but did not seem to be at all curious since they were catching fish and eating

There were thousands of salmon in the deeper water beyond the yellow sand.
A rushing stream full of pink salmon.
A curious cub.
Climbing cub does not fall!

A tasty catch!
An obstacle course for the salmon.

Santa Anna Bay

After visiting Anan Bay, we anchored in Santa Anna Bay where we saw a boat called ‘Forest Surveyor’ which was built in 1944 as a Coast Guard service boat. A passionate yachtsman transformed it into his personal yacht.

A step into the past!

Ketchikan

In Ketchikan, our last stop in Alaska, we picked up a few navigational books for the Inside Passage through British Columbia, Canada and refueled. We walked along the waterfront, reprovisioned at the local Safeway, and went to the local library to get some internet.

Lots of nice fishing boats in the harbor.
Lots of seaplanes around.
Need a taxi?

Our next stop is Prince Rupert, Canada so that we can continue down the inside passage through British Columbia to Washington State.

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