We returned to the boat in Tahiti on July 4, 2023, after attending our older son Robbie’s wedding in Rome, Italy. Next, our goal was to reach Fiji by mid-August, so we could fly back to Italy to attend our younger son Marco’s wedding. After clearing Customs in Bora Bora and following the advice of a professional weather router, we headed northwest to Suwarrow and American Samoa, then southwest to Fiji. Our original plan was to go to Tonga to swim with the whales, but the winds were blowing hard and against us at that time.

Suwarrow, Cook Islands

Our first stop was Suwarrow, a small (418 acres) atoll in the Cook Islands (part of New Zealand), a National Park since 1978. It is a low-lying coral atoll and is the most southern of the Northern Cook Islands. Our passage was 735 nautical miles and took about 5 days, with the great help of the Blue Water Runner sail.

The island was named after the Russian ship Suvorov, which arrived on its shores in the early 1800s. It was also the home of “Kiwi” (New Zealander) Tom Neale for many years in the 1950s. He wrote the novel “An Island to Oneself,” which inspired the dreams of many generations of sailors. 

Suwarrow is a paradise for sailors, marine life, and birds. It is the most important seabird breeding ground in the Cook Islands. The outer reef encloses a large landlocked lagoon, making a nice anchorage near the motu Anchorage Island. The island caretakers are also Immigration officers and live there from April to October, monitoring the wildlife and visitors. They were very generous during our stay, offering us a chunk of freshly fished tuna and cooking a pot of Coconut crabs for all of us one evening.

We enjoyed a week of beach parties, exploring, snorkeling, and meeting other boaters in the anchorage. 

Pago Pago, American Samoa

We had not intended to go to American Samoa, but a vast windless area was south of us, so we continued west from Suwarrow. After another 450 nm and 3 days, we arrived in American Samoa, which has been a US territory since 1900. The harbor of Pago Pago (pronounced pango pango) is said to be one of the best harbors in the South Pacific because it is large, deep, and well-protected. Unfortunately, there aren’t any boatyard facilities where we could have left the boat safely to attend Marco and Bekah’s wedding.

The National Park of American Samoa is gorgeous. The island is also a haven for birds, bats (see pic below of a large flying bat), and coral reefs. We drove around the island by car on a windy, rainy day with our friends from SV Griffen, Brian and Lauren.

The Tuna Factory

American Samoa is famous for its wealth of marine biodiversity, and tuna fishing and processing. We spent several days anchored next to the tuna factory—the aroma became quite nauseating!

Around Town

Disappointingly, we found the docks at the marina in great disrepair with a few sunken pontoons. In addition, both the marina and the anchorage had several abandoned boats.

The local beer and fish and chips were, however, quite good!

We had waited as long as possible for a weather window to leave American Samoa, but there was still a large, high-pressure, windless area to our south. Even so, we departed. We arrived in Savusavu, Fiji, after sailing for one day and motoring for three days.

Bula Bula Fiji!

Savusavu

Kava: The Locals’ Drug of Choice- UGH!

Kava is a root that is crushed, soaked with water, and drunk for its mind-changing effect. (FYI: In the past, it was prepared by chewing, then spitting the kava in a bowl from where other people would fill their cups.) The locals love kava for relaxation. Most island chiefs request kava as a welcome gift from arriving boats. We decided not to taste this concoction!

If you buy a kava drink at the Kava bar…it will be served out of the green pan.

Vuda Marina: In the Pits!

This pleasant, small marina had many amenities, including a great bar/restaurant and daily yoga classes. 

Lifting out and placing SV JAN in the hurricane pit.

We had reached Fiji and needed a few days to prepare the boat before leaving for the wedding. We decided on the hurricane pit, believing it would be the safest place for protection from the weather and other boats. Our next destination was Cinqueterre, Italy, for Marco and Bekah’s wedding.

We will remember all the beautiful birds, flowers, and happy local people as we leave Fiji. 

Wedding Update: Marco and Bekah!